d8b Forum

I only have the d8b mixer and the cpu ... I have no connected car ... only these two units ...

Do you know anyone that has a CPU and or a D8b that is willing to swap parts to find the culprit?

When you reseated the ribbon connectors did you lift the ribbons off and on the connector spikes and did you run cleaning solution on them??

I don't know anyone who has a CPU. When I repoted the ribbon connectors I lifted the connectors and put a detergent solution on the tip.

Ok, just to rule out the ribbons, you need to remove one connector at a time, slide your thumb nail or something like a guitar pick either side of the connector where the ribbon is, this is to lift the ribbon off the connector spikes, when you do this you should have a small gap, drop in some electrical cleaner like isopropane alcohol, then squeeze the connector back tight onto the ribbon with a pliers. I'm not saying this is your problem but it's worked for me a few times when just reseating the connectors didn't.

Are the white power connectors on tight or do they move around a little?

Thanks Phil, I think I have solved I did everything you advised me ... right now it's about 20 minutes that it works perfectly ... I hope you continuously continue.
Thank you very much.

Good news, fingers crossed that it was the wires on the spikes that had tarnished, this is a problem that is very much overlooked, lifting the ribbon off the spikes cleaning with solution and clamping back works, but it's not 100% guaranteed to keep working as the tarnish can come back but at least (if this is your problem) you know what to look for

Phil

Thanks Phil, it's almost three hours that works great !!! I'm very happy.
Thank you very much to you and to all those who helped me in this tread

Phil is correct, I had similar issues many years ago. Glad its working now

All of a sudden I have a similar problem. Board went dead in the middle of a session. Could still here audio but faders and everything else just died. Then the console died. Really weird behavior followed. When rebuilt the CPU unit on this one it worked perfectly using the original BFC. As a last step, I extended the BFC to 45 feet. When I booted the unit up, faders started to craw around so I shut it down and found that I shorted two wires in the BFC. This doesn't make sense because the wires that were crossed where both black ground wires, Pins 7 and 8. That should not have made a problem because they are all tied together on the Linear Supply board anyway. After I fixed the cable, the unit would power up but would freeze at last moment with rude solo light lit. Changed the Clock Card and everything work perfectly for about a week. so I fired the Apogee Clock card (Bummer). Last night the ghosts in my console came alive. d8b boots up but no audio. I changed the clock card again and nothing. So Changed to another desk and an original BFC. More problems. So I thought maybe the problem is with the Linear Power Supply board. First I put new thermal tape on the +/-16 rectifiers as I found one of them burnt through. Check all the voltages and they are good. +/- 5.3 V on 10 pin connector, +46 v on 5 pin connector as well as -16v and +15 pins 1-3. +/- 12 v coming from computer PSU. Still no audio. Removed all three I/O cards and one console came to life with audio. As soon as I tried to install an I/O card, it failed. Tried more and they all failed. I cannot believe that 6 out of 6 I/O cards are all bad. So I am scratching my head. Is it possible I have multiple issues from the original wire short? Also wondering if it may be a power drop, when i add more I/O cards. None of the caps look bulged.

Any suggestions besides a blow torch!

RJH_MUSIC wrote:All of a sudden I have a similar problem. Board went dead in the middle of a session. Could still here audio but faders and everything else just died. Then the console died. Really weird behavior followed. When rebuilt the CPU unit on this one it worked perfectly using the original BFC. As a last step, I extended the BFC to 45 feet. When I booted the unit up, faders started to craw around so I shut it down and found that I shorted two wires in the BFC. This doesn't make sense because the wires that were crossed where both black ground wires, Pins 7 and 8. That should not have made a problem because they are all tied together on the Linear Supply board anyway. After I fixed the cable, the unit would power up but would freeze at last moment with rude solo light lit. Changed the Clock Card and everything work perfectly for about a week. so I fired the Apogee Clock card (Bummer). Last night the ghosts in my console came alive. d8b boots up but no audio. I changed the clock card again and nothing. So Changed to another desk and an original BFC. More problems. So I thought maybe the problem is with the Linear Power Supply board. First I put new thermal tape on the +/-16 rectifiers as I found one of them burnt through. Check all the voltages and they are good. +/- 5.3 V on 10 pin connector, +46 v on 5 pin connector as well as -16v and +15 pins 1-3. +/- 12 v coming from computer PSU. Still no audio. Removed all three I/O cards and one console came to life with audio. As soon as I tried to install an I/O card, it failed. Tried more and they all failed. I cannot believe that 6 out of 6 I/O cards are all bad. So I am scratching my head. Is it possible I have multiple issues from the original wire short? Also wondering if it may be a power drop, when i add more I/O cards. None of the caps look bulged.

Any suggestions besides a blow torch!

Wow... firstly, let's start by removing said 'blow torch' from the mitigation list RJH (LOL).

I'd personally start by having a look at chapter 1, pages 13-15 in the owners manual for the logical overview, and the I/O card cage physically on the back of the desk. Based on your hardware endeavors, you've most likely already 'been there'. At face value, I agree it absolutely could be that something (anything?) placed into those slots is loading something down... does it only affect the output? Are there other wonky issues noticeable? I'd start at the card cage with the ZIF connector(s), and go from there and attempt to completely isolate things. It seems as tho whatever the issue is, it's obviously common to (at least) the four I/O slots based on the description. Voltage(s) are always a good starting point overall as you go section-by-section thru things. Seems like you've already got a good start tho...

Of course this is all just suggestion, I'm sure you'll get it sorted out regardless. Just a matter of 'when', not 'if'...